Del Maguey Santo Domingo Albarradas Mezcal
Tucked into the final outpost of Central Valley Zapotec culture before rising into the indomitable high-altitude tropical Mixe region, Santo Domingo Albarradas is the site of an enigmatic mezcal whose bright citrusy profile is painstakingly crafted with time, fire, agave and mineral rich spring water. Here, Espadín agave matures slowly over 8 to 10 years in mountainsides often enveloped in clouds above the Tesechoacán River. Distilled by the late Espiridión Morales Luis and now carried on by his sons Juan and Armando, daughters Ester, Nicolasa, Imelda and grandchildren Espridion, Sergio and Carmen, this mezcal is truly a family affair. It is an uplifting spirit, that mirrors the legacy Espiridion left for his family to carry on.
Flavor Profile
Tasting
Roasted pineapple, melon, pear, citrus, woody spice, lemongrass
Roasted pineapple and melon with citrus overtones
Roasted pear and tropical fruit
Clean and dry with lemongrass finish
Origin
High-altitude border of Central Valleys, Sierra Juarez and Mixe Region cloud forest
Santo Domingo Albarradas
6200 ft
Mountain Clay
Espadín A. angustifolia Haw.
8 to 10 years
The Process
The late Espiridión Morales Luis (d. 2021), Juan Morales, Armando Morales, Esther Morales, Espridion Morales, Sergio Morales
Hand-cut in highland Mixe soils after 8 to 10 years
Earthen pits lined with volcanic rock
Molino milling · open wooden vats · wild fermentation
What defines this mezcal
GOOD MEZCAL, GOOD MARRIAGES
Santo Domingo Albarradas’ mezcal comes from a high-altitude tropical zone in southern Oaxaca, where plants and fruits grow alongside rushing mountain streams. The mezcal reflects this environment directly. It is very fruity, with a bright nose of citrus and roasted pear. On the palate, more tropical fruits appear before giving way to spicy and woody notes.
Where Isolation Becomes Virtue
Albarradas sits at the edge of the Sierra Mixe and appears suddenly, ordered and quiet, held firmly in place by the landscape. Above everything, at the very top of the hill, a spectacular white church watches over the town, visible from almost anywhere. The streets are clean. The houses are immaculate, many of them resembling small mini-mansions, with columns, painted fences, and decorative details that lean toward the gaudy, all of it carefully maintained. There’s a strong sense of care here: in the streets, in the architecture, in the way people behave. Albarradas feels protected by its geography, shaped by altitude and moisture, and defined by a rhythm that is orderly, controlled, and deliberate.
DOÑA ROSA’S TABLE
One can risk saying that no one makes better tortillas than the women of the Morales family in Santo Domingo Albarradas, and that is saying a lot in Oaxaca. The tlayudas arrive warm, thick, and fragrant, and they set the tone for the table. Chicken with chipotle follows, cooked simply and with confidence. Doña Rosa and her daughters in law cook while mezcal is poured, and both move at the same pace. People eat, drink, talk, and pause. Mezcal stays on the table throughout the meal, passed between plates and conversations. Food here is just very good, and it’s how time is shared.
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